In speaking with Wende Gray, a representative of the Upper Andro Anglers Alliance, she said the rafts were loaded with debris.

They found at least 1,000 lbs including car bumper, culvert, oil tank, bedspring, tires, car seat, paint cans, lamp post, electrical conduit, baby carriage and 1950′s record player.

Below are pictures of some of the participants and a good representation of some of the debris that got hauled away.

Tom Remington

I would like to share with you some of my key locations to find fish and the hottest set ups for early summer presentation.

The most important factor at this time of the year is water temperature. I recommend a must-item for you is a surface temperature gauge. Your gauge can be a simple hand held thermometer or a unit built into your fish locater.

Early summer is a great time for Coho and Chinooks. They prefer water temps in the mid fifties. Think about it, the temperature of Lake Michigan is in the 48-degree range. The most active fish are in the top twenty-five feet of water.

Find the warmest temperature you can. Sometimes I am fishing a temperature break of only a degree or two. You will find these temperature breaks at mouths of rivers, power plants and protected bays.

The wind direction will be a major player in warm water location. The surface warms first and wind will move this water around. On Wisconsin’s shore a light east wind does wonders for improving action.

The reason I used most of this article on temperature is because it is a key factor in finding fish. Temperature is almost more important than the type of lure you use.

Motor trolling is the method I use for most of my fishing, and I will explain one of my basic setups. If possible I would max out the number of rods, because more is better this time of year. I fish 50% of my lines on Yellow Bird planer boards. Find a brand you like and run all the same type.

The balance of my lines are on Slide Divers and downriggers. For lures I like Vulcan and Reaper regular spoons. On most days all of their colors will work. The water is too cold for flasher flies and they will be used when the water warms to over 52 degrees.

When fishing early in the season, fish metabolism or body temperature is very low and requires a slow presentation. I run my boat speed between 1.8 and 2.4 miles per hour.

The color of the lure is dictated by the amount of light and water color. On most days, in clear water, I use silver or glow lures. Hotter colors work best in cloudy water. You can’t go wrong with chartreuse in both conditions. The new glow in the dark lures are an excellent option.

I get my spoons at http://www.badgertackle.com The old rule of thumb applies, bright lures bright days, dark lures dark days.

Good luck!

Jim charters out of Milwaukee, WI. with Blue Max Charters. He can be reached at 414-828-1094 or visit his web site at http://www.bluemaxcharters.com Copyright© 2008, James J. Hirt, All Rights Reserved.

I have trolled sewed smelts, suckers, and shiners, over a period of more that fifty years. Most of the time I use the method taught to me by Harl Andrews. This is my method.

First, be sure to use sewing hooks with double leaders ( I make my own) Why? Because you take the single sewing hook and, using the point of the hook, force it down through the top of the head in the bony part just above the eyes. Pull the complete hook down through. Then bring the hook up to the top of the head once again, and put the hook down through the same hole in the head a second time.

Now carefully “sew” the hook along the lateral line of the bait(fish). Way back to just in front of the tail. Complete the sewing by making sure hook is completely embedded inside the bait.

Now work the leader material taught enough to give the sewed bait a bit of bend. Once you have the bend you want, take the leader and pull any excess back towards the loop end of the leader.

This next step is very important—Place one side of the double leader behind the gills on one side of the bait, and the second leader on the opposite side. Finalize any needed adjustments to keep a slight bend in the sewed bait. Attach the loop of the leader to the trolling line swiveled end.

Throw the line overboard with the line short enough so you can see the rolling action. The sewed bait should be doing only a slow roll at trolling speed. If it turns too fast then loosen the double loop on the head and take some of the loosened line and adjust the sewed bait to become straighter. If the sewed bait doesn’t turn fast enough, (and I emphasize that it should be only a slow roll) adjust the line so it is tighter.

Sometimes I do attach a small treble hook to the head, but I haven’t found out a way to use the treble hook to penetrate the head, (between the eyes). I have heard of the head knot, for use with treble hooks, and even though I have never used this method, I sort of remember it involves tying a couple of half hitches around the head, just behind the gills. That’s the best I have to offer.

Oh, I almost forgot the most important part. “Spit a big gob of goo on the bait as an attractor”.

*Note* Since the time of this writing, Sayward Lamb, with the assistance of chief photographer Milt Inman, have put together a series of photographs and captions that should help better demonstrate the art of tying bait.

Sayward with double leader and double tandem hooks that he tied. The leader is about four feet long but you can select whatever length you desire. I recommend that the leader be at least two and a half feet long. (Note) The front hook slides on the leader, so it can be adjusted for whatever length fish you choose to sew on for your trolling bait.

This shows the hooks. The forward hook slides on the mono-filament leader material in order to be adjusted for whatever length of the bait fish being used for trolling.

Bait fish can be whatever length you choose to use. The one illustrated is a shiner about four and one half inches long.

Take the rear hook and begin by placing the point of the hook on the top of the head, just behind the eyes.

Insert the hook and push it completely down through, until it comes out the lower jaw.

Pull the hook out and prepare to repeat this procedure.

Place the hook in the same hole at the top of the head and pull the hook out through the bottom of the jaw for the second time.

Pull the leader material through until you have a good sized loop.

Take the hook by the shank and begin sewing by inserting the hook in behind the gills and bring it out along the lateral line of the fish. The distance of the loops will be determined by the size of the sewing hook. (Right handed people will find it easier to sew on the right side of the bait fish.)

The next four photographs will show the process as is explained in the caption that follows:

Insert the hook into the same hole where it exited and repeat the sewing process until the hook reaches a point located just ahead of the tail.

After the hook is pulled out, just in front of the tail, hold on to the bend of the hook and push the shank back inside the last exit hole, nearest the tail – leaving most of the bend and tip of the hook outside the fish.

Take any excess leader and pull it back out of the head until it makes a slight bend in the fish.

This shows the bend of the fish. The curvature depends on several factors. Such as the size of the bait fish; length of leader; number of swivels; and trolling speed.

Take the leader and place one strand of the double leader material behind the gill on each side of the head. Now tighten up the loop until the leader is tight.

Now the sewing is completed with the leader inside the bait fish.

Slide the front hook back towards the head and insert the hook just behind the lips of the bait fish. (I usually insert the hook with the point up.)

The sewing is completed and now it is time to start trolling at your regular trolling speed; checking the bait fish to see that it rolls s-l-o-w-l-y! Remember, this should imitate a crippled fish. If it rolls too fast the curve needs to be straightened. This is done by loosening the line, to straighten the curvature of the bait fish.

If it is not rolling properly, the line needs to be tightened, to give slightly more curvature to the bait fish. It is a trial and error process, so be patient and soon you will be catching that big one that you are after.

Good luck and tight lines!

A. Sayward Lamb

Before you assemble your fly rod, rub the male ferrule of the tip section in the crevice next to your nose, between your lips and your eyes. The natural oils from this area of your face will help lubricate the ferrule and make it easier to take apart when you are ready to take your rod apart.